Blueprint Review
Turner/Simon Kitchen
In general, you and your architect have done an excellent job in laying
out a good traffic pattern for your kitchen. My suggestions, then,
are ideas to further refine the good plan you start with.
COUNTER HEIGHT QUESTIONS: Since Beth is considerably shorter than
Tom, and both plan to work in the kitchen, what about designating
a higher counter prep area (in addition to the higher area in the
island). I suggest the area above the wine cooler -- the counter height
could easily change here to 38" to the right of the cooktop. (To determine
Tom's ideal counter height range, have him stand, wearing whatever
shoes he wears to cook in. Let him bend his elbow so that his hand
is in front of him, and measure the distance from the elbow to the
floor. This distance minus 4-6", is his ideal counter height (usually
the lower height is the best, so if his elbow distance is 44" off
the floor, 38" would probably be ideal). Of course this same technique
can be usefully employed in determining Beth's ideal counter height,
which is probably LESS than the standard 36". I'd be especially careful
to lower the counter to a good Beth height on the butcher block area
of the island, which is going to be the main workhorse prep area in
the kitchen.
Particularly for chopping, kneading, and rolling, a lowered counter
area for almost anyone who cooks is ideal, no matter what their height.
Leaving the counters at standard height on the sink wall and turning
the corner to the cooktop will both aid in re-sale and give both cooks
a "neutral' space in which to work, since both will have long-since
accommodated to standard counter height, no matter what their ideal
may be.
I've just spoken with Paul at some length about various materials
and configurations. Here are a couple of different ways you might
want to conceive of the kitchen:
SINK AREA -- NORTH WALL: The Stainless Option and its corollaries:
Since this is the light-filled end of the room, you might want to
take advantage of the sparkle and make the sink and counter into an
integrated stainless steel area, either in whole or in part. This
is an EXTREMELY practical solution for the wet area of a kitchen,
and can be fabricated with integral drain grooves and (MOST IMPORTANT)
a front lip edge. If you went with this solution, I'd advise covering
the fridge with a wood panel and have wood on the pantry and all-but-oven
fronts on the WEST elevation to keep the visual temperature in the
warm and welcoming range. Be aware too that the stainless counter
will be remarkably warmed by wood cabinetry below, as well as plants,
flowers, etc. Stainless has the capacity to feel jewel-like, seductive,
and glowing when surrounded by more earthy materials. Note that it
will require polishing with a dry cloth after use.
The Soapstone Option: If you do go with soapstone as a counter material,
note that it's not the porosity that's a big issue (I've poured beet
juice, lemon juice, and oil on soapstone samples without major consequences),
rather, the problem is how soft it is. It can be carved with a fingernail,
and a dish raked across the surface can leave a little trail. It's
very easy to get rid of the trail with an application of oil (this
has to be done monthly in any case), or, for a deep scar, with sandpaper
and then oil. But it is a high-upkeep material if you want to keep
it looking pristine. If, however, you cherish the patina of use, it's
a great material. Like the stainless option, soapstone can be ordered
with grooves for a dishdrain. It is a good choice of material for
an undermounted sink, and looks fabulous with stainless. Do note that
as soon as soapstone is oiled, it turns a warm charcoal gray, and
loses that blue quality forever unless it dries out.
I suggest that you consider further mixing materials (I understand
that your plan already mixes materials) to maximize even more the
advantages and minimize even more the drawbacks of different substances..
One way to do this would be to have a stainless sink and counter immediately
around the sink area (a minimum of 18 "s on each side of the sink),
and then switch to another, lower upkeep material such as granite
(I suggest seeing if it's possible to get a HONED Absolute Black,
which would be matte rather than glossy) or honed white marble with
a sealer (not a perfect solution, but beautiful). This would create
a rectangle of stainless that would function like a steel island within
a run of stone counter along the whole window wall. The stone could
turn the corner to the cooktop, and continue along that EAST wall
to the end.
Similarly, you could use FIRE SLATE with or without a stainless counter
top insert for the sink counter and the East wall -- it looks very
much like soapstone but is much harder. It also needs regular oiling.
Although it's man-made, it has a stone quality. It's economical too.
The sitting end of the island is an opportunity to use an incredible
piece of stone -- whatever gets your visual juices going. I'd look
at white marble with blue or gray veining, or a rosy quartz, or granite
that has a lot of movement in it, or a marble that looks like a delicious
French pate, or a classic green marble with veining. This stone should
be polished and sealed for ease of use. If you need to roll out pastry
on stone, use a marble pastry board, or any part of a FIRE SLATE or
soapstone counter, which work just as well.
I have some concerns about exposure and dirt when pots and pans or
other items are stored in open wire baskets. Although I love Hafele's
inserts, and specify them in every kitchen I design, I am worried
that in New York things stored in wire baskets will need washing every
time before they are used. You might want to consider putting solid
fronts on those drawers for that reason, unless you are planning on
daily help to keep the contents clean.
Conversely, you might also like to look at Hafele's rattan baskets
for onions, potatoes, and/or fruit storage. One or two of these in
a kitchen are practical and add tremendous warmth. The rattan baskets
are surrounded by a beech frame and pull like drawers on a track.
I am less concerned about dirt here since you use these items up in
a timely way, and wash or peel them as a matter of course anyway.
Every kitchen needs more than one place to hang wet dish towels. I
suggest you hinge the filler strip on the right of the Sub-Zero and
insert one or more Hafele pull-out rods. You could also use this space
to create a pull-out spice cabinet, since the waste heat from the
Sub Zero will exit out the top front grill. I recommend Dean & DeLuca's
spices in tins, as my experience is that they last very well and remain
fresh for longer than spices stored in glass. I also find the quality
very high. Especially for ethnic cooking, you'll need a wide variety
of spices. If you use the tins (or glass bottles for that matter)
you can have fabricated a wooden rack that's as wide as your spice
containers, and that extends the full 24" depth of that narrow cavity,
and pulls out for access. If you put the dish towel rod at counter
height, you'll have a huge area from counter to the top of the cavity
to hold as many spices as there are in the world.
BROOM CLOSET -- where is it? Every kitchen needs a place for a vacuum
cleaner, broom, mop and bucket, rags, and miscellaneous cleaning supplies.
If such a closet is not in the kitchen, it needs to be located nearby.
Don't forget to plan for this, I speak from bitter experience when
I say if you forget this, you'll miss it later.
I suggested to Paul that you might want to consider mixing wood and
stainless on the WEST wall in a pattern, to maximize the visual impact
of both materials, but eliminate the opportunity to create fingerprints.
Strips of wood on the pull section of the pantry doors, a grid pattern
of steel matching the oven configuration and wood elsewhere, or broad
lateral bands of steel and wood are all alternatives. I love the idea
of frosted glass on the upper dish cabinets. That might also look
smashing on the upper cabinets on the WEST wall. Do make sure that
the shelves are glass and that there is adequate internal light inside
the cabinets and controlled by dimmers.
You could alternatively create black rubber inserts on a stainless
or stainless and wood surface -- I'm thinking of a black semi-circle
around the pull area, for instance.
LIGHT: I assume you'll have spot ceiling fixtures along the NORTH
wall and under and above the cabinets and counters on the EAST wall.
I'd like to encourage you to mentally designate an area either on
the island or sink wall that is the "flower place". Kitchens can take
a leaf from restaurant design and use the relationship between flowers
and food. The reason I'm bringing this up is that you'll need to locate
a spotlight beaming down on this flower place; it will need to be
separately switched, and on its own dimmer so that you can use it
at will and create any atmosphere you wish.
The dining end of the island will profit from down lights that are
pendants (here's another opportunity for something beautiful, like
small colored glass halogen fixtures such as those made by Lightolier
in cobalt or ochre). Or a Murano glass fixture, or a craftsman piece.
Again, whatever light(s) you choose should be on dimmers, for good
control. You'll want to locate these toward the center of the island,
so they don't interfere with heads.
In terms of sinks, I suggest you look at Franke's Pro Line, which
are deeper than usual and a very good quality of steel. Their faucets
are good, as are those made by Grohe, and Hans Grohe.
Exhaust Systems: I like Vent-A-Hood because I think the "squirrel
cage" system works well. You can buy their hoods in their housings,
or you can just buy the innards and get housing elsewhere. You might
like to look at the hood housings made by Abbaka, a Danish company
that has US distributors. I think they are very beautiful. You can
also have a hood fabricated to your own specifications. Note that
I have nothing against Gaggeneau, I don't know how they compare to
Vent-a-hood in terms of efficiency. If they are just as good, go with
them.
Organization:
WEST wall: I am assuming that the drawers under the ovens will hold
potholders, baking equipment and roasting equipment. Where are things
like rolling pins, measuring cups etc/ In the island? Make your baking/roasting/broiling
zone central and locate it in relation to the ovens.
EAST wall: Similarly, pots and pans, stovetop tools like wooden spoons
and spatulas all need to be stored near the cooktop. Put less frequently
used items lower, and most frequently used items higher.
You've probably already planned for much of this, as you've located
the cutlery drawer near the dining end of things. WHERE IS YOUR KNIFE
STORAGE? A block on the counter? Slots in the edge of the butcher
block? I love the rail system for tools and cookbook holder, etc.
If you store knives there, have a butcher block handy for the cooktop
counter (this is a good idea anyway). Where are you storing your wine
glasses?
There is so much that is good and well-thought-out in the plans you've
sent -- I love the drawers on the buffet, they're a really intelligent
touch.
Finally, my last suggestion has to do with TOEKICKS. In every kitchen,
much additional storage can be gained at little cost by using European
toekick standards (6-7") instead of American ones (3-4"). A higher
toekick makes the proportions of cabinets and drawers much more pleasing
(a repeated pattern of squares rather than rectangles), and delivers
really useful space in the recessed toekick drawer. These drawers
can hold platters, extra linens, placemats, roasting pans and baking
pans, and much more. Because the fronts are vulnerable when washing
the floor, they should be appropriately sealed if wood, or covered
in rubber or steel. European dishwashers come with a door front adapter
for this toekick height, and the radiator grill work under the north
wall can be made to the same height standard, if you like this suggestion.
It has been a pleasure to think carefully about your kitchen, particularly
because you've done such a good job setting it up. I think you've
succeeded in creating a kitchen that will work for one or two cooks,
as well as a crowd. I can imagine lots of friends working together
around the island; I can also imagine how well this kitchen would
function were you to have caterers working in it. And I can also see
what a pleasure it will be to come home to and work in alone or as
a couple. There's plenty of room for more than one person to work
without getting in anyone's way.
I'm glad you are considering sound-absorbent materials for the floor,
as they will add an extra layer of comfort to using this kitchen,
both aurally and underfoot. Either real linoleum or cork will fill
the bill, as would rubber (if you could find rubber flooring without
raised dots or grooves, which are impossible to clean). I see that
most of the cabinetry has touch latches; if you have cabinets will
require hardware pulls, I'd suggest soft black rubber ones for ease
of use with wet hands, for a soft feel on the fingertips, and again,
for sound.
I hope this answers your questions. Should you have any other queries,
you can reach me by phone or e-mail.
